Sunday ‘long run’ day was the perfect opportunity to get further afield early in the morning. I’d worked out on our bus tour that there was a lot more beachfront to be explored, so headed out to see what I could find. It didn’t disappoint… sunrise over the calm Balearic Sea was just perfect. This area was a focal point for the sailing events at the 1992 Barcelona Olympics and Paralympics and underwent major redevelopment to ensure it is accessible for all. There were so many runners out when I came through on my way back – we all appreciate spaces are well-designed and inclusive!
The ‘David and Goliath’ statue by a Catalan artist is striking in the morning light. It was installed just after the Olympics, and is said to also symbolise the struggles of the old poor neighbourhood that was lost during the redevelopment.
I’d also worked out that my run was long enough to take me back to Sagrada Familia. We visited in the afternoon on Friday, so only the Western facade was well-lit. I knew that the Eastern ‘Nativity’ facade would look better in the morning light and it didn’t disappoint. The ongoing construction also seemed more visible… what an undertaking!
Once again, the artistic detail on the building is stunning with the spring fruit and ‘Tree of Life’ much more visible at this time of day.
Our apartment is in the La Rambla area, near the Gothic Quarter. The history was clearly oozing out of every crevice so we found a walking tour of the area to learn more. It started at ‘Barcino’ the original Roman walled area of Barcelona that existing from the 1st century to the middle ages.
So many spaces are well-preserved, yet not appreciated. One of the oldest walls in Barcelona now has an apartment building on top, with the arches filled in for stability. There’s also a couple of cheeky pieces – a Picasso installation that celebrates community strength on the School of Architecture opposite the Barcino; and the cursed Pont del Bisbe designed by Gaudi collaborator Joan Rubió, after his work was rejected for the 1929 Barcelona International Exposition.
The Barcelona Cathedral has been on this site since the 3rd or 4th century, however the current Gothic building was built in 1899. One of it’s unique features is the 13 geese that live a very comfortable life (complete with their own butler!) in a pond within the courtyard. They represent Saint Eulalia, who was martyred at age 13.
The ‘Mural of the Kiss’ was installed in 2014 to celebrate the tricentenary of the fall of Barcelona in 1714. The mural is made up of 4000 mosaic tiles with images submitted by the people of Barcelona, representing a moment of freedom. A great piece of storytelling, that is one of the most photographed and instagrammed places in Barcelona.
The Gothic Quarter is filled with tiny alleyways that lead to unexpected plazas and incredible old buildings. We toured past the castle and execution courtyard of Ferdinand and Isabella, the Angel’s gate (previously the Blind Gate) oldest source of potable water in the city, and Sant Jaume Square with the City Hall facing the Palace of the Government of Catalonia. You could spend weeks exploring and learning about this part of town, and our guide Lindsay clearly had!
This area is also home of the Picasso Museum. When I think of Picasso, his ‘Blue Period’ and ‘Cubism’ come to mind. His work is actually very diverse, starting as a 13 year old with paintings of his family. It is said that whenever he painted me, they were in the image of his father.
After my run this morning I decided that the beach was a must-see for BB. It was quite a contrast in the afternoon – windy, beach packed with sunbathers, water packed with boats enjoying another round of the America’s Cup. The beach had some distinct differences to the Gold Coast – no smoking, not a ‘Cool Cabana’ or a rashie in sight, ramps for wheelchair access to the water, and a much more simplified version of the beach conditions.
I don’t know how many km we’ve travelled since leaving Derby, but in the Grady tradition we’ve really been packing it in through London, Belgium and Barcelona. I reckon we’re going to need a week doing nothing on the beach when we get home!
Love M & BB x
PS… As an addendum to my musings on bins and vending machines… Barcelona passes a lot more responsibility for rubbish to residents, with big communal bins on the street. Paper, food, cans, bottle and the rest! Meanwhile, Barcelona Cathedral delivered a very unexpected Candle vending machine. No honour system here!!!
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