Reflections – Nepal, and our trip

Our 11 days in Nepal have certainly been adventurous and eventful! Looking back, we’ve covered a lot of ground, seen some breathtaking sights, and been challenged in ways we couldn’t have imagined.

Without question, the number one highlight has been the Himalayas. The mountains are enormous and breathtakingly beautiful. They calmly beckon at sunrise and on clear days, and we can understand why so many people want to reach their peaks.

Then, as the clouds roll in and cover their peaks, you’re reminded that these mountains would be unforgiving and are a challenge that should never be taken lightly.

It’s very special that one mountain, Machapuchare (Fish Tail), is considered sacred and will never be climbed. A true piece of wilderness remaining on our planet.

We didn’t have a chance to capture the mountains at their best, but the glimpses that we had will stay with us until we return.

The welcome of the Nepali people has been delightful. In the rural towns and villages these people live uncomplicated lives and approach everything with a wide smile and a call of ‘Namaste’. They seem genuinely happy to welcome tourists into their spaces.

Their hospitality has been exceptional. The Nepalese are natural service people who want to ensure that every need is catered to. Stand outs were the 30 porters and kitchen staff who trekked luxuries (a mattress!) up the hill for us, the Famous Farmhouse at Nuwakot, and the whitewater rafting team.

Everywhere we went we saw the way that towns and villages work together to build a community. Watching the villagers band together to build roads and retaining walls was incredible. Even in some of the bigger villages along the highways we would see communal water sources bringing the village together, reminding us how much we take for granted that we can turn on the tap in our home.

We’ve commented on the earthquake impact a few times in Kathmandu and near Nuwakot, but really, it’s nothing like the extent that international media would have us believe.

People have got on with cleaning up and rebuilding, and when we compare Nepal 20 months on, to Christchurch that we saw 4 years on, the Nepalese are well ahead.  A lot of this has to do with the lack of modern underground and road infrastructure, and Christchurch are rebuilding for the long term, but the Nepalese seem to take individual and local accountability for the rebuild. They aren’t waiting for government and insurance companies!

When I listed my expectations for Nepal, I included a comment about being surrounded by the Buddhist faith. Our experience of Buddhism, and religion in general, was much more subtle. We’ve visited a couple of major Buddhist sites in Kathmandu, and seen small shrines in most place, but it’s not nearly as visible as I expected.

Having said that, the Stupa are remarkable! Both the Swayambhunath Stupa (Monkey Temple) and Boudhanath Stupa are stunning with their white stupa, gold spire, Buddha eyes, and colourful prayer flags connecting us to the core elements… air, fire, water, earth and wind.

We were also surprised by the incredible resilience of Emma, Alex and the other kids on the trip. Both girls battled awful sickness from the moment we arrived in Kathmandu, for a full 7 days until our rafting trip. Somehow, they climbed up and down hills, endured long bumpy bus rides, tolerated squat, tent and bush toilets, attempted to eat at every mealtime, and did an awesome job of remaining human! We’re very proud of the way they handled themselves – they really embraced the GradyBunch catch cry of ‘SiuP’ (Suck it up Princess), and ensured they didn’t miss out on a great trip.

Meanwhile, every other kid and most parents were ill at some point… 13 out of 14! It was quite a bonding experience, and the group and Padma did an awesome job of keeping spirits up, seeing the funny side, and focusing on the adventure of it all. I’ve learned that if you don’t have a doctor in the group, a pharmacist is the next best thing!

You can see the West slowly creeping into every town and village in Nepal. At the moment, its visible in the proliferation of packaged goods in every tiny shop… chips, biscuits and soft drink are everywhere. This has brought rubbish that wouldn’t have existed previously, and the infrastructure to dispose of the packaging doesn’t exist. Apparently, it’s only in the last 5-6 years that rubbish has started to appear on bush tracks and hillsides.

I also wonder, if the West could turn back the clock, would we choose to introduce the foods that are now causing so many health problems?  From what we’ve seen, the Nepali diet is very fresh and doesn’t include fried foods, and Nepal remains one of the few countries in the world that doesn’t have a McDonalds – let’s hope they keep it that way!

You don’t expect much from infrastructure in remote areas, but when the main highway between the capital and one of the largest cities is worse than an outback road, it’s pretty shocking. This has to limit the opportunity for Nepal to grow and thrive, and to attract the tourists that bring so much money to the country.

The community spirit that is built alongside road construction is great, but there doesn’t seem to be a lot of government support for basic safety, so I wonder what price the villagers pay for the new roads they work so hard to construct… and how long those roads will last?

Our final shock was at Chitwan National Park. It’s hard to fathom that there are still people breeding elephants to keep as pets, and as working animals for the property and tourists.

One government developing infrastructure, the other developing infrastructure from the community up.

One doggedly determined to educate the next generation, the other fostering a love of learning.

One rich with history and architecture of ruling families, and the other rich with natural wonders.

There is no right or wrong. Both are beautiful, both are developing, and both are worth a visit!

Love theBunch x