Our second day in Belgium was allocated to Brussels. This trip is an opportunity to learn more about Bonne’s heritage, and Brussels is a key part of it. My maternal Grandmother ‘Mums’ was Belgian and my Mum was born there, and then lived there for a period of time when she was 10.
On the way to Brussels I heard stories of my Great Grandparents – Granny and Pare, his sister (my Great Great Aunt) Tante Adolphine , and Uncle Vin. I particularly wish I could have met Adolphine and Vin… apparently she was hard of hearing and when her fiancee referred to her as ‘my little deaf one’ to his friends, she broke it off. This is a fierce girl early 1900s style! Mum remembers Uncle Vin as a lovely caring man… makes sense.
Brussels turned on the rain as we arrived so after a cobblestone dash to the Grand Place. There are chocolate shops EVERYWHERE so it felt like time to sample a couple… a traditional truffle and praline for Mum, and a couple of Cuberdon’s for me (fruity flavoured jellies with a crunchy shell). We also spotted the Cote d’Or Bouchee – I looked forward to these little praline filled elephants every time anyone in the family visited Belgium.
The Grand Place was filled with tents being pulled down after an event over the weekend so we decided to return when the square was clear and hopefully the skies were blue! The Galeries Royales St Hubert were designed and built from 1846-47 and are comprised of a main ‘Kings Gallery’ with smaller Queen’s and Prince’s Galleries extended from each side. It is now designated a historic monument and a premium shopping arcade.
‘Premium’ means high end lace shops in the style that Granny would have loved, italian leather gloves for $400, and chocolate shops that looked more like jewellery or makeup stores with absolutely stunning displays!
Belgium has a strong history in comics such as Tin Tin and the Smurfs. One of Bonne’s cousin’s, Didier, spent his career as an illustrator for the Tin Tin cartoons and we didn’t expect to find a specialist Tin Tin shop in the city. The old cartoons and new merchandise are beautiful, and the messages are timeless.
Manneken Pis… on the list of ‘must do’ in Brussels, and widely recognised as one of the most underwhelming tourist sites. It was first noted as a drinking water fountain in 1451, and the current 55cm bronze statue of a boy peeing was completed in 1619. The current replica sit behind bars, surrounded by shops making the most of it’s tourist status. The statue met our low expectations, and then the surrounding tourist tackiness exceeded them. Just WHY???
Our first church for the day was Eglise Notre-Dame de Bon Secours ‘Our Lady of Assistance’ built in the 12th Century. It is one of most beautiful churches of the Flemish Renaissance period, with a unique hexagonal choir that reaches to a domed ceiling. The Chapel’s seem to welcome tourists more than I remember from our 2013 trip to Europe, with audio guides and museums, and acceptance of all people regardless of religion (or not).
The Sablon region of Brussels is known for it’s art, antiques and bookstores. We persevered through the periodic cold downpours, enjoying the occasional patch of blue sky!
Little things are fascinating… how do you move into 4th floor unit in Brussels? With a mobile elevator that precariously shuttles your possessions to the front window apparently. I’ve never seen anything like the guy and a washing machine on the platform, no harness, no barriers, rattling up to the window. No way this would be permitted in Australia!
Back to the things that ‘normal’ tourists find fascinating… our second church for the day is the Church of Our Lady of Victories.
Built in the 15th Century, this Gothic style chapel in the main square was patronised by the noble and wealthy citizens of Brussels. It’s a grand space.
Our lap of Brussels took us to the Royal Palace. It’s currently being renovated and closed to tourists so we made the most of the gardens between the Royal Palace and Palace of the Nation, home of the Brussels parliament.
Our final Cathedral for the day is St Michael and St Gudula Cathedral, overlooking the town centre. Construction commenced in the 11th Century and is considered one of the finest examples of mediaeval gothic architecture. I can’t quite fathom how they were able to construct something so grand and large.
Back to the Grand Place… the grounds were clear, the sky was not! The town hall and surrounding buildings make up one of the most stunning European marketplaces I’ve seen. It;s hard to capture how striking the buildings are when the sun cracks through and reflects the gold features. The panorama of the Grand Place doesn’t quite do it justice… it was worth a try!
A big day in Brussels complete, back to the apartment for a rainy walk around Ghent. Making the most it!
Love M & BBx
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