We left Jaipur and headed for Agra. While the train might be quicker, the drive showed us the countryside, and brought us to a rural town for an overnight stay half way.
This area of Rajasthan is completely flat, and either side of the highway were fields of mustard. During spring and summer this makes way for lentils, and then peanuts.
The drive was fast and smooth, and we shared the road with a random selection of cars, motorbikes, overcrowded buses, camels, and heavily decorated trucks, and tractors. Apparently, the trucks and tractors are considered family in these parts, so they are decorated with love. We also saw the same on tuktuks as we passed through towns.
The towns were ramshackle and overloaded with cement shops and mobile phone shops. We saw many homes drying round discs of mud on their roof, which were then neatly stacked out the front… turns out this is cow dung, used for fuel in the winter.
We’re staying in Karauli. The Royal family here have turned the guest wing of their palace into a hotel. It’s another throwback to colonial times, with animals mounted on the walls and an enormous stuffed tiger in the entry way. There are hundreds of royal portraits capturing the family from the king as a boy, through to today. It’s a beautiful site, and feels like a privilege that the family shares their life and property so openly.
This afternoon we walked to the old palace, built in the 14th century. Again, it’s a mix of Indo-Persian architecture. The magnificent artwork that gives the flat walls depth and character is familiar, with the Hindu artwork depicting animals, while the Islamic is always geometric shapes. This palace is well maintained, and the colour on the ceiling and walls is stunning. The artists must have been very talented… one error, and they died.
The private meeting hall is stunning, and again features the privacy screens for the Queens to listen and provide input to the King. It would be fascinating to know how much influence they really had…
There are so many references to the Hindu religion in every part of the palaces here, and while we’re starting to get our head around the Gods, it’s deep and complex. It makes me wish that religion in schools was about all the religions of the world, as it would bring a deeper understanding of the rich mix of our community.
We were able to access the roof in this palace, where hundreds of monkeys played, while we enjoyed the view across the whole town. The sunlight gave the palace a warm glow, and we enjoyed the peace, surrounded by the sounds of townspeople coming together at the end of the day.
At sunset we headed to a Krishna temple. While religion brings people together, you can see that it’s strengthening community. No photos allowed.
Walking back through the alleys, there were plenty of kids trying out their English on us. For most, ‘Hello’ is as far as they will go, with a ‘Good Evening’ every so often. They study English, Hindu, and their local language throughout school, and my sense is that they work damn hard in tough conditions.
School is based on the British system, but public schools are single sex, and the privileged few who go to private school study in a co-ed environment. School is 6 days a week, for 10 months of the year, with 8 weeks holiday in Summer. There are no iPads, no computers, and the playground is a dusty space for cricket, football, or hockey. Teachers are respected more than parents… And that says a lot!
Throughout the trip we’ve been asked to join in photos and selfies. This seemed odd at first, but now the girls are used to it. This morning, we even had a photo shoot in a bathroom, with a Hindu girl who was not able to show her face to men, but removed her scarf for the photo.
In general, people are fascinated by us and our pale skin, and Javed jokes that ‘We stare because we care’. We might be the tourists, but we are also the attraction!
Love theBunch x
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