The last full day of a trip is always a mix of packing in last minute activities. Thankfully today’s plan was a calm and quiet one. We started the day with a short walk around Omicho markets in Kanazawa. These markets have the usual fare that reflects the local area – plenty of fish and fresh veggies. It also seems more formal and permanent than some of the others we’ve seen in the last fortnight – indoor, with a lot of proper restaurants throughout.
I don’t think I’ll ever look at a strawberry without thinking of Japan again. This fruit we take for granted is a delicate treat – at 4,500 yen (nearly $50) for 12, no wonder they have their own little protective baskets! Meanwhile, the presentation of food is something unique that reflects the Japanese appreciation, precision and care for their produce. The butterfly fish, and a mixed tray of sushi, nigiri and onigiri in a department store foodhall remind you that food is as experiential as it is functional.
We headed over to Higashi Chaya District via the streets of Kanazawa. This area is incredibly flat, so any small hill becomes a critical viewing and evacuation area. The last major earthquake struck in January 2024, with 200 lives lost… it makes you realise how well all these houses and buildings are constructed.
The Higashi Chaya District is the largest of three teahouse districts in the city. ‘Chaya’ is an exclusive style of teahouse where guests were entertained by Geisha in the Edo period. These little streets are so modest ad clean – definitely a unique departure from flashy tourist areas!
Learning about the Tea Ceremony was one of the ‘must-do’ activities while we were in Japan. Soyu teahouse started with a formal ceremony run by an experienced host – calm, silent, and very precise! The pre-tea sweet was designed to resemble a cherry blossom and the thick matcha was shared between two.
We then shared a more informal ceremony that brought light and laughter into the space. We all had a go, learned our posture was atrociously Western, and enjoyed a much lighter tea.
I love the ritual of the ceremony. It’s performed with care and consistency – cups turned towards the recipient, utensils cleaned. with Andrew and I were given the crane cup to symbolise a long and happy marriage. I guess we looked like the oldest couple, not helped by Australian sun!!!
It was run by the 21 year old apprentice, whose limited English was super cute. As we discussed greetings she was beautifully embarrassed by the idea of the European cheek kissing of some others in our group!
Dinner was at another Cubbyhole recommendation… the tiniest tempura restaurant in the backstreets. It was like dining at someone’s kitchen bench in the 70s, being served each morsel one by one as it was prepared in front of us. There was no option but to try everything… including the snail. Not what we’d normally choose – I guess that’s what travel is for!
It says something that we were so immersed in the experience that we completely forgot to take photos along the way. Another exceptional, highly recommended spot to finish our stay in Kanazawa!
Love M & A xx
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