Today we hit the Inca Trail for the first of 4 days hiking. This is the centrepiece of our trip, and something we’ve all been looking forward to, so it’s pretty exciting to be here!
The trail is closely managed by the Minister for Culture and the Minister for Environment meaning that all aspects of the significance of the trail are looked after. It also means that both check your passport before you set off across the bridge at ‘KM 82’.
We were each issued with a duffle bag and a 6kg limit of items to go with the Porters. This includes our sleeping bag, mat, and enough clothes for 4 days, and 3 nights camping in 0-5 degrees. The Porters are allowed to carry up to 25kg, and all weigh in before they start. If they’re overweight they are required to source an additional Porter for the group.
Our day packs weigh about 5 kg with water and we walk slowly… The Porters run with 25kg! Apparently the record time for completing the Inca Trail marathon is 3 hrs 45 min, held by a 45yo Porter who ran without the pack – he would have flown! Also bear in mind, the trail is rocky, at altitude, and includes about 80,000 steps with 2600m of vertical ascent, and 2700m of vertical descent.
The early part of the trail is wide, lined with cactus, and dotted with views of Inca ruins, as there was both a commercial path, and a separate path for Inca royalty that had the views over the valley. Canabamba was a resting place for travellers, meaning ‘small place growing the Cana Bush’. You can still see the granaries that would have stored grains for sale in the Sacred Valley.
Mount Veronica is the tallest in region, and towered over us. The depth of the valley was amazing, and like nothing we’ve ever seen.
The Urubamba River winds through the Valley and the Incas believed it went to the Milky Way. This fascination with the Milky Way also inspired the shapes of the towns, based on animals. Interestingly, the Incas didn’t have a word for goodbye because of their belief in reincarnation.
We hiked a few steep sections today, and often market stalls were waiting at the top to sell cold drinks. The Porters enjoy drinking ‘chicha’ a corn beer, also mixed with strawberry for 1 Sol (40c) a cup. Despite our guide’s best attempts, we drew the line at drinking fermented corn from a trail vendor!
We also made a friend at this stop who seemed to want to come along for the ride… until a bird swooped in and had him for lunch. The rest of our group was horrified, for us, it felt just like we were at home!
Late morning we came to Patallacta ‘the city above the terraces’, that is about 30% of the size of Machu Picchu. It was a big market in the region, strategically located at the intersection of 3 valleys, each a source of different wares. The Sacred Valley brought corn, from the Jungle came coca leaves, which were considered more valuable than Silver and Gold (because precious metals were merely decorative), and from the Highlands came dry meat and potatoes.
The site consisted of circular buildings and a Sun Temple. It also featured the outline of the snake, representing the underworld. It’s believed that the builders of Machu Picchu lived here, and travelled 6 hours up the valley to work each day.
The final site for the day was Ushnu, a sacred place where the Incas gave offerings to Pacha Mama (Mother Earth). Most commonly a black llama was sacrificed, as they believed the black llama was pure and it featured in the Milky Way.
Lunch was at Tarayoc. By the time we arrived the porters had set up dining tents and were cooking up a storm. Each time a person from our group arrived everyone stopped to give them a round of applause – a fantastic gesture.
Somehow they managed to serve asparagus soup and rainbow trout with veges for lunch… seriously?!?!
The afternoon was more climbing and it was interesting to see the different zones – starting dry, with cactus abound and shifting to more of a rainforest feel. All the while, surrounded by huge mountains, and bordered by the Urubamba river.
We managed a few drops of rain – enough to pull the ponchos out for 10 minutes, and then realise it was too steamy. In general it was a hot sunny day so the Canadians felt, but these Aussies have spent all summer preparing for this!
We finally made it past the first checkpoint (yes, they keep tabs on everyone!) to camp at about 4 pm. Some might say the highlight of the campsite is the llama that belongs to the family. For me, it’s a magical clear night so there are thousands of stars bordered by mountains. Very special 🙂
Tomorrow is the toughest day on the trail. Based on today, I think our training has paid off, and we’re well equipped to go higher than we’ve ever been before!
Love M & theBunch x
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