Well, the tracks weren’t smooth, and the Vietnamese music from the crackly sound system was far from peaceful, but when you’re tired, you sleep!!!
We arrived in Lao Cai at 5:45am and were met by our guide for the next 2 days – Diep. His first task was to direct us to the bathrooms… and for 2000VND each, the girls and I had our first non-Western toilet experiences. The look on Alex’s face when she realised was priceless, but with an hour drive ahead of us… Needless to say we’re now making the most of every Western toilet we come across 🙂
Sapa is a mountain village in the North West of Vietnam. The French recognised its tourist potential as a mountain retreat in about 1993, and since then Western style hotels have been built in abundance. Again, we were treated to a Western breakfast, served in full English. They don’t seem to be as interested in our bad Vietnamese, preferring to practise their English. The French influence is still strong, seen in the buildings, the baguettes and the crepes!
We then set off for our Homestay village – a 12+ km trek down through the rice terraces, past the tallest mountain in Vietnam, and Indochina. After starting in the clouds and fog, we emerged into a surprisingly sunny and warm valley. Stunning.
The H’Mong people who inhabit the area are distinctive in their indigo dyed clothing, and while they don’t speak English they are quite skilled in asking you to buy their wares as small groups walk with you down the mountain. The children attend government run schools (all eactly the same, complete with images of Uncle Ho everywhere!) where they learn the local language and Vietnamese.
Our Homestay is with a ‘Day’ family. Our guide tells us that this village has worked out that there is more to be made in running a homestay than badgering tourists as they walk down the mountain. As I sit here they are building a new concrete driveway (I’m loading up on ‘safety shares’!) – the town is clearly benefiting and reinvesting in tourism. Good on them!
The girls helped cook spring rolls for dinner, and Diep shared the local delicacy of French fries cooked in garlic – disgustingly good! We then had a fabulous meal of choko, cabbage, fresh pork stir fry (we heard the squeals from the pig earlier in the day) and fresh chicken stir fry. Great food.
Tomorrow, we walk back out of the valley and up to Sapa… expect there will be sore legs tomorrow night!
Love M & the Bunchxx
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