Sometimes a moment of disappointment can be an unexpected win. Yesterday afternoon we’d planned to visit Gaztelugatxe, only to find that it was ticketed and fully booked on weekends. One of the staff recommended returning early this morning, so we set off back to the coast in very foggy conditions.
The fog cleared and we were greeted with a magnificent view. It turns out that morning light brings out its best side!
Gaztelugatxe is a tiny islet just off the coast, connected to the mainland by a man-made bridge. It might look familiar to any Game of Thrones fans. Apparently it was one of the filming locations for Season 7, with Dragonstone digitally created on the islet.
The name translates to either ‘rock castle’ or ‘inaccessible castle’ – both are fitting! It’s about 1km straight downhill from the road to the bridge, then 240 steps up to the top… you’d be fit if you did it regularly. At the beginning of the steps there is a footprint said to have been left by Saint John the Baptist that brings luck if you step on it.
The ‘San Juan de Gaztelugatxe’ church has been on the islet since the 9th century, and was a convent in the 12th century. It has been reconstructed multiple times due to fires and battles, and the current buildings were constructed in the 1980s. It appears to still be operating today, which begs the question… who is going up there every week?
The view from the top of the islet back to the coast is stunning. Its ruggedly beautiful coastline, with black beaches and shale rock formations similar to the flysch we saw yesterday.
The mouth of the Nervión River that flows through Bilbao is about 10km north of the city. The Puente de Bizkaia (Bizkaia Bridge) connects to the West, and Las Arenas to the East. I’m always a fan of a good bridge, and this is one of the most unique I’ve ever seen!
The bridge was built in 1893 and remains one of the oldest functioning transporter bridges. A large gondola hangs from the structure, and takes 6 cars and pedestrians back and forth for a trip that takes a couple of minutes over the river. It seems like an odd solution initially, and then when you realise it’s quicker than a boat, and not subject to tides, it’s very smart!
The bridge also includes a pedestrian walkway and viewing platform on the top. Initially my fear of heights gave it a hard NO, however then it looked nicely enclosed so I figured I’d give it a go. There was a lot of regret as we went up in the glass lift, then a lot of deep breaths and sweat to get from one side to the other. The views were amazing, although no part of me could look down or go near the edge. I get bonus points for bravery today!
We got back to Bilbao mid-afternoon and I grabbed the opportunity to head out for my first continuous 30 minute run since Sydney… a momentous event, 32 weeks of hard work and patience in the making! The Guggenheim was a great venue… just as beautiful in the hazy afternoon light. It also let me explore more of the surrounding structures and sculptures – this city has really embraced the arts.
‘Pintxos’ is the Basque word for spike, and also one of the foodie highlights of the region. The small tapas-like snacks feature seafood, cod, mushrooms, croquettes skewered (the spike!) on to a piece of bread. They’re presented on the top of bars throughout the region and are enjoyed by locals and tourists with a glass of wine. They’ve generally been a set price in each venue of about 3-5 Euros ($5-8) which is incredibly good value. I suspect they aren’t meant to be dinner per se, although they definitely offer a great solution to those of us that struggle with the idea of sitting down to eat after 8!
Thanks to my 9 weeks of Spanish lessons I’m pretty confident with ordering food and drinks, asking for the bill, and paying with card. Oh the difference having some conversation practice makes!!!
The last stop of the day was to the Bilbao Funicular. It’s been zipping up and down the Artxanda Mountain since 1915 to give guests a view over the city. It was a hazy evening to finish off our final full day in Bilbao.
One last piece of Basque Burnt Cheesecake (in the coolest packaging!), and we’re ready to head off to the Pyrenees in the morning!
Love M & A x
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